South Florida Sun-Sentinel.com
Restaurant review: Orient Diner, Delray Beach
August 14, 2009

Harbor Plaza, 1725 S. Federal Highway, Delray Beach
561-243-2688
orientdiner.com
Cuisine: Chinese
Cost: moderate
Hours: lunch Tuesday-Saturday, dinner Tuesday-Sunday
Reservations: only for parties of 5 or more
Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Bar: beer, wine
Sound level: moderate
Outside smoking: yes
For kids: high chairs
Wheelchair accessible: yes

First impression: The neighborhood Chinese joint gets a face life in this modern 28-seat eatery with an open kitchen where you can watch food being prepared behind a glass wall.

Background: The family that once owned Orient Palace in Boca Raton now has the fast casual
5-Spice Asian Street Market in Boca and this spot, which opened in March.

Ambience: More take-out than eat-in, it's as diner-esque as the name suggests. There's a TV on the back wall and many people come in and out to pick up take-out orders. It's a family-owned restaurant, not one in a corporate chain.

Starters: Peking Duck Wraps ($9) are full of crispy skinned duck rolled in tortillas with scallions and cucumber. They arrive in their own serving piece designed to hold the three, cone-shape wraps and Hoisin dipping sauce. The BBQ Spareribs ($8 half rack) are nicely chewy. Hot and sour soup ($2 cup, $3.50 bowl) is full of veggies and tofu and not so hot as to be offensive. Classic Cantonese won ton soup ($1.80 cup, $3 bowl) starts with a satisfyingly meaty broth. Look too for Vietnamese spring rolls ($5 for 2) and Cold Sesame Noodle Salad in a spicy sesame peanut dressing ($6).

Entree excellence: House Special Singapore Noodles ($11) are full of chicken and shrimp, but where's the curry? We ordered Asian Greens ($8.50) off the menu and received a delightful plate of bright, still crunchy greens. The prawn special ($14) were perfectly cooked specimens in a sweet and sour sauce. The menu here is big, not enormous like Chinese menus of old. The greatest hits are all here: General Tso's Chicken ($10.50), Szechwan-style egg plant or green beans ($8.50) and fried rice with pork, chicken and vegetables ($8). The stir-fry section of the menu allows diners to choose their protein ($9.50 for chicken, pork or tofu/$11 for beef, shrimp or scallops) and then a stir-fry style. Among the styles are teriyaki, Hunan, black bean and garlic and Thai Penang Curry.

Sweet!: Standard vanilla, chocolate or pistachio ice cream ($2.50) as well as Fried Banana Rolls with ice cream ($4.50).

Service: Fast and courteous.

— John Tanasychuk, Copyright © 2009, South Florida Sun-Sentinel.